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Steering geometry

Posted by roy holden on September 10, 2009 at 07:56:41:

Graham,
I concur with Russell's idea to look at the front suspension of similar Turners,but I had exactly the same problem in 1971 when re-building my Turner.The original calipers were corroded beyond use so later Midget calipers were fitted; these fouled the old 15" wheels so 13" wheels were substituted. The original steering arms then hit the new wheel rims so I put on shorter Midget-type steering arms. The "droop" you descibe on these sounds awfully familiar as does the appalling(almost dangerous) bump-steer. My way round this was not terribly scientific but has worked very well for the last 38 years ; car was put on friendly garages ramp and the rear bolts taken out of both steering arms. A portapower ram was fixed to the chassis and used to jack the car up and down so we could see the toe-in/out change on droop or bump conditions. By adjusting the height of the track-rod end of the steering arm via tightening/loosening the remaining front bolt in the steering arms we arrived at a position where the steering deviation was at a minimum. Additional metal was then welded to the steering arm to allow re-drilling for the rear bolts at this position. All works well and there's never any peculiar wear on the tyres which might indicate a peculiarity in the wheel alignment.
Good Luck, Roy


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